Blog
Contents
The verdict up front
Three shoes, three places to buy them, September 2026
Why does the UK no longer refund VAT to American shoppers?
Alden: the American reference, sold at a fixed price
When is Allen Edmonds cheapest, and does anything abroad compete?
Is Crockett & Jones cheaper in Northampton than in New York?
What does US customs charge, and what about the postal route?
Is it worth a trip to Northampton?
Verdict by buyer type
Where cashback fits
Frequently asked questions
Key takeaways
Blog
Alden vs Allen Edmonds vs Crockett & Jones: US, NYC, Northampton 2026

Alden vs Allen Edmonds vs Crockett & Jones for US buyers in 2026: US direct, NYC with sales tax, or Northampton with no VAT refund. Verdict by buyer type.
"Still making traditional craft-made footwear in the original factory in Perry Street, Northampton," is how Crockett & Jones describes itself, and in September 2026 that sentence costs an American buyer three different amounts depending on whether the shoes are bought on Perry Street, on 55th Street in Manhattan, or shipped in a box to Ohio. Add the two American houses that compete for the same foot, Alden of Middleborough, Massachusetts and Allen Edmonds of Port Washington, Wisconsin, and the question "where should I buy my good shoes" has a real answer that changes by brand.
This article prices one reference shoe from each maker, the Alden 403 Indy Boot, the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue and the Crockett & Jones Hallam, across three buying locations: at home in the US, in New York City, and in Northampton or London. It uses September 2026 stockist prices, the pound at about US$1.35, Great Britain's post-2021 position on tourist VAT, New York City's 8.875% sales tax, and the US$800 personal exemption and flat 3% band from U.S. Customs and Border Protection. It ends with a verdict by buyer type, including the one that matters most: your size is not in the factory shop.
The verdict up front
- Alden: buy in the US, because that is the only place it is sold at scale, and buy in a no-sales-tax state if you can. The 403 Indy is US$730 at authorized stockists (Tom Beckbe, September 2026); Alden Madison in New York adds 8.875%.
- Allen Edmonds: buy in the US, on sale. The Park Avenue is US$450 at list and was US$349 in the April 2026 Anniversary Sale (Dappered). Nothing abroad competes with an Allen Edmonds sale.
- Crockett & Jones: buy in England if you are going, order ex-VAT from a UK retailer if you are not, and treat the New York shops as the convenience price. The Hallam is 545 to 575 pounds in the UK (about US$736 to US$776), inside the US$800 CBP exemption as accompanied baggage.
Earn cashback via ShopBack on English and American welted shoes at Farfetch and on men's footwear at END. by activating ShopBack before you click through. Cashback is a rebate on the retailer order and does not change VAT, duty, sales tax or the factory's recrafting terms.
Three shoes, three places to buy them, September 2026
| Alden 403 Indy Boot | Allen Edmonds Park Avenue | Crockett & Jones Hallam | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Made in | Middleborough, Massachusetts | Port Washington, Wisconsin | Northampton, England |
| Home-market list | US$730 (Tom Beckbe) | US$450 (US$349 April 2026 sale) | 545 to 575 pounds (Robert Old), about US$736 to US$776 |
| Bought in New York City | US$730 plus 8.875% = about US$795 | US$450 plus 8.875% = about US$490 | US$ price at 55th Street or SoHo shop, not captured; plus 8.875% |
| Bought in a no-sales-tax state | US$730 | US$450 | not stocked at the maker's own shops outside NYC |
| Bought in England | not sold | not sold | 545 to 575 pounds including 20% VAT, not refundable to visitors |
| Shipped from a UK retailer to the US | n/a | n/a | ex-VAT price plus US duty under HTSUS 6403 and carrier brokerage |
| US customs if carried home | n/a | n/a | inside the US$800 exemption for one pair; 3% flat on the next US$1,000 |
| Repair loop | Domestic | Domestic recrafting program | Northampton, or a US independent resoler |
Sources, September 2026: Tom Beckbe product page for the Alden 403; Dappered's April 2026 Anniversary Sale coverage for Allen Edmonds; Robert Old and Care of Carl for Crockett & Jones Hallam UK and EU prices; Visit London on the end of tourist VAT refunds; CBP Customs Duty Information; Pound Forecast and Pound Sterling Live for the pound cross rate.
Why does the UK no longer refund VAT to American shoppers?
Because Great Britain abolished the VAT Retail Export Scheme on January 1 2021, when it left the EU single market. Visit London's 2026 tax-free guidance states plainly that visitors cannot claim VAT refunds on in-store purchases in England, Scotland or Wales; a scheme survives only in Northern Ireland. Retail trade groups have lobbied to bring it back and the government has reviewed it, but as of September 2026 the position is unchanged. So the 575 pound Hallam on Jermyn Street is 575 pounds at Heathrow too, with 20% VAT inside it.
That makes England a worse tourist shopping market than France or Italy on paper. In practice the English shoe still makes sense for an American because the UK price is the source price: a Northampton shoe sold in New York carries freight, US import duty and a Manhattan rent, and then 8.875% New York City sales tax on top, so the UK sticker beats the New York sticker even with VAT locked inside it.
Alden: the American reference, sold at a fixed price
Alden has made shoes in Massachusetts since 1884 and builds its reputation on Horween leathers, the Chromexcel used in the 403 Indy Boot and the shell cordovan used in its most sought-after models. It is family-owned, small, and does not run sales on current styles. The 403 Indy lists at US$730 at Tom Beckbe, an authorized stockist, as of September 2026; Alden's own dealers (Alden Madison on Madison Avenue, The Alden Shop in San Francisco and Washington, and collaborations through J.Crew and Brooks Brothers) hold the same line.
The buying decision for Alden is therefore about sales tax and availability, not price. The same US$730 boot is about US$795 at the register on Madison Avenue and US$730 in Portland, Oregon. Shell cordovan models are allocation items with waiting lists, which is where the dealer relationship matters. Alden is not sold in England or Japan at any scale, so there is no cross-border angle; the grey market is eBay, where ShopBack cashback applies on the click and discontinued makeups turn up.
When is Allen Edmonds cheapest, and does anything abroad compete?
Allen Edmonds, owned by Caleres, is the larger American welted shoemaker, and its pricing is built around a sale calendar. The Park Avenue cap-toe oxford, the shoe most American men buy first, lists at US$450 and was US$349 in the April 2026 Anniversary Sale per Dappered; the Fourth of July and fall sales and Black Friday on November 27 2026 repeat the pattern. Factory seconds through the Shoe Bank channel sit lower again.
Allen Edmonds is also the brand with the most straightforward repair story: the recrafting program at the Port Washington factory replaces sole, welt, cork and heel and refinishes the upper, with domestic shipping both ways. For a buyer who wants one pair of black oxfords to last a decade of weddings and interviews, a Park Avenue bought on sale and recrafted once is the cheapest route in this article by a long way.
Nordstrom and the brand's own stores carry the full line; buying from a US retailer in a no-sales-tax state, or online to an address in one, removes the last variable.
Is Crockett & Jones cheaper in Northampton than in New York?
On the shelf, yes. The Hallam oxford is 545 to 575 pounds at Robert Old, a UK stockist, and 695 euros at Care of Carl in the EU, as of September 2026. At about US$1.35 per pound that is US$736 to US$776. Crockett & Jones' own shops in New York, on 55th Street and in SoHo, price in dollars at a level that absorbs US import duty, transatlantic freight and Manhattan retail, and then New York adds 8.875% sales tax. We did not capture the New York dollar price on a dated pull, so we will not quote it, but the structure is the same for every Northampton maker with a US store: the US price is the UK price plus the cost of getting it there.
The Northampton factory shop is the floor. It sells seconds, overruns and discontinued lasts at a discount from the main collection, in whatever sizes remain, and it is a day return from London Euston. The main shops on Jermyn Street and in Burlington Arcade sell the full collection at list, with sales in January and late June.
Coming home, one pair at about US$776 is inside the US$800 personal exemption; two pairs put about US$750 into CBP's flat 3% band, about US$23. The UK VAT you could not reclaim is the whole tax cost, and it is already in the sticker.
What does US customs charge, and what about the postal route?
CBP's Customs Duty Information page: US$800 exemption for a resident back after at least 48 hours abroad, flat 3% on the next US$1,000, HTSUS rate above that, and joint declarations for household members travelling together. Leather footwear is HTSUS heading 6403, where Goodyear-welted shoes have their own line; the rate matters only past the flat band. Declare the shoes, and do not wear a brand-new pair through the hall on the theory that worn shoes are not goods; the receipt in your bag says otherwise.
The postal route is different. A UK retailer that ships directly to a US address can zero-rate the 20% VAT, which is why UK sites often show a lower price to US visitors. The parcel then enters the US as a commercial import rather than as your baggage, so the traveller's US$800 exemption does not apply. The duty-free de minimis treatment for low-value parcels was suspended in August 2025 and its status has been in flux through the 2026 court rulings on the tariff packages, so the safe assumption is duty under 6403 plus a carrier brokerage fee, which on one pair is typically tens of dollars. For a US buyer who is not travelling, that is still usually under the New York shop price plus sales tax.
Is it worth a trip to Northampton?
Not for the shoes alone; the saving on one pair against the New York price is a dinner and the train fare. It is worth a day if you are in London anyway and want to see the factories (Crockett & Jones, Church's, Tricker's, Edward Green, Cheaney, Loake and Grenson all make within a few miles of each other) and try the factory shop. Go with your UK size written down, because UK sizing runs about one size below US on the same last and widths are E and F rather than D and E, and be ready to leave empty-handed. A near-miss size at a factory discount is the most expensive shoe you can buy.
Verdict by buyer type
| Buyer | Best path | Why |
|---|---|---|
| First pair of welted dress shoes | Allen Edmonds Park Avenue on sale, shipped to a no-sales-tax state if possible | US$349 in April 2026, domestic recrafting, nothing abroad competes |
| Chromexcel boot for daily wear | Alden 403 Indy from a US stockist | US$730 everywhere it is sold; pick a stockist outside New York to skip 8.875% |
| Shell cordovan collector | Alden Madison or The Alden Shop, with a relationship | Allocation and waiting lists; price is fixed |
| Already in London | Crockett & Jones on Jermyn Street, or Northampton by train | About US$736 to US$776 for a Hallam, inside the US$800 CBP exemption |
| Wants Crockett & Jones, not travelling | UK retailer shipping ex-VAT to the US | Beats the New York shop price plus sales tax even after duty and brokerage |
| Needs shoes this week in Manhattan | Alden Madison, Crockett & Jones 55th Street, Nordstrom for Allen Edmonds | Same day; accept the 8.875% |
| Bargain hunter | Northampton factory shop, Allen Edmonds Shoe Bank, eBay with ShopBack activated | Seconds and discontinued lasts; only in your exact size |
Where cashback fits
ShopBack cashback is a rebate on the order at a partner retailer, paid by ShopBack from the retailer's referral fee after the return window closes. For welted shoes in the US that means multi-brand retailers that are ShopBack partners and stock English and American makers: Farfetch and END. are the two in this article. Open ShopBack, click through to the retailer, add the shoes, check out in the same session, and the cashback tracks to your ShopBack account at the retailer's published rate. The brands' own stores, Alden's dealers and Crockett & Jones' shops are not ShopBack partners, so the direct and in-store paths earn nothing and should not be routed elsewhere to chase a rebate.
Cashback does not change sales tax, VAT, customs or recrafting, it is not a store loyalty program and does not combine with one, and it does not apply at a till in Northampton. It applies on the eBay click too, which is where discontinued Alden makeups and barely-worn Crockett & Jones turn up at a discount.
For the London trip, flights and hotels booked through ShopBack US travel partners earn cashback on the booking, which over a week is a bigger number than any shoe saving here.
Frequently asked questions
What do the Alden Indy, Allen Edmonds Park Avenue and Crockett & Jones Hallam cost in September 2026?
The Alden 403 Indy Boot in Horween Chromexcel lists at US$730 at Tom Beckbe, an authorized US stockist, as of September 2026. The Allen Edmonds Park Avenue cap-toe oxford lists at US$450, and was US$349 during the brand's April 2026 Anniversary Sale, per Dappered. The Crockett & Jones Hallam oxford lists at 545 to 575 pounds at UK stockist Robert Old, which is about US$736 to US$776 at the September 2026 rate of roughly US$1.35 per pound, and at 695 euros at Care of Carl in the EU. We did not capture Crockett & Jones' own US dollar price on a dated pull, so this article treats the US price as a markup on the UK number that covers duty, freight and US retail, which is how English shoemakers price their American stores.
How does the UK tax situation work for an American buying shoes in London or Northampton in 2026?
Badly, compared with the EU. Great Britain abolished the VAT Retail Export Scheme in January 2021, so a visitor buying Crockett & Jones on Jermyn Street or at the Northampton factory shop pays the shelf price including 20% VAT and cannot claim it back at Heathrow, per Visit London's tax-free guidance. Northern Ireland still has a scheme, which is irrelevant for Northampton. The one route that removes UK VAT is export by the retailer: when a UK store ships the goods directly to a US address, it can zero-rate the VAT, and the pair then meets US customs as a postal import rather than as accompanied baggage. That is why the UK retailer's price shown to a US web visitor is often lower than the in-store number.
What does US customs charge on a pair of English shoes bought abroad?
U.S. Customs and Border Protection allows a returning resident who has been abroad at least 48 hours an US$800 duty-free personal exemption, charges a flat 3% on the next US$1,000 of goods, and applies the Harmonized Tariff Schedule rate above that. A single pair of Crockett & Jones at about US$776 is inside the exemption; two pairs at about US$1,550 put US$750 into the 3% band, about US$23. Leather footwear sits in HTSUS heading 6403, where Goodyear-welted shoes have their own line; the rate only matters once you are past the flat band. Family members who live together and return together can pool exemptions on a joint declaration. Declare every pair; shoes are the classic item travellers wear through customs and then regret.
Is Crockett & Jones cheaper in Northampton than in New York?
On the sticker, yes. The Hallam at 545 to 575 pounds in the UK is about US$736 to US$776 at US$1.35 per pound, including 20% UK VAT that you cannot reclaim as a visitor. The New York shops on 55th Street and in SoHo sell the same shoe in dollars at a price that absorbs US import duty, transatlantic freight and Manhattan retail, plus 8.875% New York City sales tax at the register. The Northampton factory shop is cheaper again, because it sells seconds, discontinued lasts and overruns at a discount from the main collection; stock is whatever is on the shelf that week. A pair bought in the UK is inside the US$800 CBP exemption, so the Northampton price is close to the final price.
Is Allen Edmonds cheaper than Alden for a comparable shoe?
Yes, by a wide margin, and the gap widens on sale. A Park Avenue cap-toe is US$450 at list and was US$349 in Allen Edmonds' April 2026 Anniversary Sale; an Alden 403 Indy is US$730 and Alden essentially never discounts current styles. Part of the gap is construction philosophy: Allen Edmonds, owned by Caleres and made in Port Washington, Wisconsin, runs a larger factory with regular sale events and a recrafting program; Alden, family-owned in Middleborough, Massachusetts, runs small volumes, long waits on shell cordovan, and a dealer network (Alden Madison in New York, The Alden Shop in San Francisco, J.Crew and Brooks Brothers collaborations) that holds price. For a first welted dress shoe, Allen Edmonds on sale is the value answer; for Chromexcel boots and shell cordovan, Alden is the reference.
When does Allen Edmonds run its biggest sales?
Allen Edmonds has a predictable calendar. The Anniversary Sale in April cut the Park Avenue from US$450 to US$349 in 2026, per Dappered's April coverage. The Rediscover America sale lands around the Fourth of July, a fall sale runs in September or October, and Black Friday on November 27 2026 and Cyber Monday on November 30 2026 bring the deepest end-of-year cuts. Factory seconds and the Shoe Bank clearance channel run year-round at a lower price with cosmetic flaws. Alden does not run comparable sales; Crockett & Jones runs a January and a late-June sale in its UK shops and the Northampton factory shop has permanent markdowns on seconds.
When should an American buy Crockett & Jones in the UK rather than at home?
When you are already in England, when you can get to Northampton for the factory shop, or when the pound is weak. At about US$1.35 per pound in September 2026 a 575 pound Hallam is about US$776; if the pound slid back toward US$1.20 the same shoe would be about US$690, which is a bigger swing than any sale. The UK shops' January and late-June sales compound that. The trip does not pay for itself on one pair, so the honest framing is a London trip with a Jermyn Street afternoon, or a day return to Northampton by train from Euston if you want the factory shop. If you are not travelling, order from a UK retailer that zero-rates VAT on export and budget for US duty and a carrier brokerage fee on the parcel.
Can I avoid UK VAT by having the shoes shipped to the US?
Yes. A UK retailer that exports goods directly to a non-UK address can zero-rate the 20% VAT on that sale, which is why the dollar or ex-VAT price on a UK site can be lower than the in-store pound price. The trade-off is that the parcel then enters the US as a postal import rather than as your accompanied baggage, so the traveller's US$800 exemption does not apply; the duty-free de minimis treatment for small parcels was suspended in August 2025 and its status has been in flux through the 2026 court rulings on tariffs, so budget for duty under HTSUS 6403 plus the carrier's brokerage fee, which on one pair is typically tens of dollars. For a US buyer who is not travelling, this is still usually cheaper than the Madison Avenue or 55th Street price plus 8.875% sales tax.
Does recrafting or resoling work the same for all three brands in the US?
No. Allen Edmonds runs a formal recrafting program at its Port Washington factory that replaces the sole, welt, cork and heel and refinishes the upper, and because the factory is domestic the turnaround and shipping are straightforward. Alden offers factory restoration through its dealers and its Middleborough factory, also domestic. Crockett & Jones refurbishes at the Northampton factory, which for a US owner means the shoes cross the Atlantic twice; the New York shops can arrange it, but the clock runs in weeks to months. The practical alternative for English shoes is an independent Goodyear-welt resoler in the US, which most owners use after the first sole. If you plan to run a pair for fifteen years, the American brands have the shorter repair loop.
What if the Northampton factory shop does not have my size or last?
This is the normal outcome, not the exception, so plan for it. The factory shop sells seconds, overruns and discontinued lines in whatever sizes remain, and UK sizing runs about one size below US sizing on the same last (a US 10 is roughly a UK 9), with width fittings labelled E and F rather than D and E. Go with your UK size in the specific last written down, try on everything close, and if nothing fits, the main collection at full price is a few minutes away in the Crockett & Jones shops in London or online from a UK retailer that ships ex-VAT. Do not buy a near-miss size at a factory shop discount; a welted shoe that is wrong in the last will not break in, and a 575 pound shoe that does not fit is not a bargain at any price.
Key takeaways
- Alden 403 Indy is US$730 at US stockists as of September 2026 and never on sale; the only lever is skipping sales tax by buying outside New York City.
- Allen Edmonds Park Avenue is US$450 at list and was US$349 in the April 2026 Anniversary Sale; on sale, with domestic recrafting, it is the value answer in this article.
- Crockett & Jones Hallam is 545 to 575 pounds in the UK (about US$736 to US$776 at US$1.35), including 20% VAT that Great Britain stopped refunding to visitors in January 2021; one pair carried home is inside the US$800 CBP exemption.
- The New York shops are the convenience price: US import costs plus 8.875% sales tax.
- A UK retailer shipping ex-VAT to the US is the route for non-travellers, with duty and brokerage replacing the traveller's exemption.
- Factory shops are only a bargain in your exact size and last; ShopBack cashback applies on the Farfetch, END. and eBay clicks, not at the till in Northampton.
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